Saturday, June 7, 2008

"Lone Cat's" Steak - Take Two

Ever wondered what happened to that other steak? I grilled it and ate it, just like this.

Filet mignon grilled rare, lemon-shallot butter, grilled red onion and white mushrooms, fire-roasted peppers, heirloom tomato.

Wine: Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Wells Merlot 2003. In a word: sofffft. Both Columbia valley climate and old (for American Merlot) age show. Very fruity in the beginning, then fast but smoothly coming to nothing. Medium (light even for merlot) body.

Lazy Saturday Morning in the Garden

Early Girl tomato
  • Wake up at 7 am to a birdsong, try to sleep till 8, no chance

  • While the water for the coffee is boiling, sweep the patio

  • Clean the sunny pond, cut out water hyacinths overgroving the shadow pond

  • Tie up the tomatoes and peppers

  • Repot the basil

  • Arugula has gone to seed - kill or wait to collect the seeds? I'll wait

  • Edit yesterday's post - I've been drinking

  • Make OJ and coffee

  • Remove the ivy from under the fig tree

  • Drink OJ and coffee

  • Water the orchids

  • Post to blog

  • Clear spiders from the shower, shower

  • Time to relax in the sun? - Too late, it's noon already, the worst time for sunbathing. Off to buy more tomato cages.

Hungarian Purple pepper

Friday, June 6, 2008

Lone Cat's Friday Night Delight: Filet Mignon

So the FatCat™ is in Europe for another week, complaining in the emails, the poor thing, about endless business lunches and dinners he has to endure, and I am, surviving the Friday night on my own. All alone. And the filet mignons on sale in the Safeway come in packs of two. FatCat™, I miss you! Well, it's a good deal, these fillets, I'll take two anyway.

There was a great temptation to eat both fillets, but I compromised by serving a couple of slices of pate with pickles and fire-roasted peppers for an appetizer, and some cheese and apple slices for desert, and saved the second steak for tomorrow.

Grilled fillet mignon: wipe the fillet dry with paper towels, season with salt and pepper, brush with olive oil. Grill over high heat (500F) for 3 minutes each side, turning 90 degrees once to create grill marks, then finish for about 5 minutes on low for medium-rare. Let rest for 5 minutes.

Red stuff is made of fire-roasted red bell peppers, roasted garlic, Spanish (toasted) paprika, salt, pepper, EVOO, red wine vinegar.
Green stuff consists of cilantro, parsley, fresh garlic, EVOO, salt, pepper, lime juice and lime rind.

Both processed in a blender and passed through a fine strainer.

Pink heirloom tomatoes, flat parsley for garnish.

Wine: Rabbit Ridge 2004 Allure de Robles. It claims to be Rhone-style. I would say it's a good example of a Central California Sirah.


"Healthy" Classics: Pâté de Campagne

The man is in Europe and I cook just for my precious self for the time being, so I can relax and forget about fat, cholesterol, and calorie count (I am sure he is not weighting each slice of cheese there either, but you know how you always eat a lot and still lose weight when you travel - I guess he'll be OK).

So we cut into large cubes fat pork belly and pig's liver - sounds like a swearing, Pig's Liver! right? - and marinate them in cheap white bordeaux and cognac, adding a couple of shalots, couple of large garlic cloves, a crushed Jamaican pepper, some dried Provance herbs, or whatever we feel like - I was feeling like Provence herbs.

Cannot add salt and pepper to taste, it's not a very good idea to taste fresh pork from the Chinese store. So just add salt and pepper. I found out that no matter how much salt I add to the pâté or sausage meat, I always have to add more, and even after that they come out not as salty as they are supposed to be.

So we just add a lot of salt and pepper at this stage, and refrigerate the meat till tomorrow.

The next day, we get out the old trusted meat grinder, attach it to the counter, get our meat out of the fridge, and completely mess up our kitchen, clothes, and hair.
Sorry, my hands were so dirty at this step that I just couldn't photograph the process. After the clean-up, we are hopefully left with a bowl of forcemeat. Now we get 2-3 Tbsp of the meat, form it into a patty, if it's too wet, roll it in breadcrumbs, fry it, try it, and adjust the salt! Note that we were probably eating the patty still hot, and the pâté will be served cold, so if the patty tastes good, ADD SOME MORE SALT to the forcemeat. If it comes out undersalted, the best you can do is to serve it with pickles and olives, there is no way to add salt to the finished product.

I was inspired to make pâté this time not only by the absense of the man on a diet, but also by half a pound of caul fat that I recently found in Dittmer's freezer. For such a wonderful product, caul fat is very difficult to find. But now I know that Dittmer's has it, and I'll never wrap my pâté in bacon again! After you defrost your half-pound, it unwraps into a snow-white finest fractal lace that looks more like an example of digital art than like something coming from animal intestines. And it doesn't have added smoke flavor.

As much as I love everything smoked, the bacon flavor does clash with the pâté.


So we unwrap our fatty lace and carefully line the terrine mold (or loaf pan, whatever will be used to cook the pâté) with it, fill it with forcemeat, packing it tight, and cover with the edges of the caul fat, so that the pâté is completely wrapped, cover it with aluminum foul, and in the oven it goes, on a water bath, at 350F, for about 2 hours.

To get the texture right, you have to cool down the pâté under weight. What I use is an oval of cardboard a little smaller than my mold, wrapped in foil and weighted with a large can of San Marzano tomatoes. The next day it's ready to eat. If you don't plan to eat it all at once, cover it with rendered pork, or, better yet, duck fat, to preserve it. I was lucky to have two molds of pâté, and a whole jar of fat left over from a roasted duck, so I'll be eating pâté all week, and will do my best to make sure that by the time the man comes back, there will be no "healthy" food in the house.

Wine: 2004 Dry Creek Mariner, my favorite, I used to have a case...

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

Fresh Pasta

I've been buying fresh pasta in plastic boxes in the supermarket untill one day I looked at the list of ingredients, and I couldn't read most of it. I don't read Latin. So I went on eBay, and instead of buying a couple of books - a chemistry textbook and a Latin dictionary - I bought a pasta machine. Same money, less reading to do. Now there are two or three ingredients in my pasta: eggs, semolina flour, and optional bread flour.

I love dried pasta too, but fresh pasta has a completely different taste (it's made with eggs while dried is made with water) and texture. Mine looks very different too - I don't know how to make complex shapes, especially the ones with a hole in the center, so mine is all flat. Also you have all the fun kneading and shaping your own pasta dough. And if there are guests, it's a show for them.

The dough recipe comes from Jamie Oliver's The Naked Chef. You just mix together a little over 3 cups of flour and 8 egg yolks + 2 eggs and knead, knead, knead. Since the dough is very dry, this part is a workout. It's OK to add a teaspoon of too of water to make it a little more manageable, but it has to stay firm and dry, otherwise you'll have a problem of the dough sticking inside the machine later. Then you leave the dough to rest covered in the refrigerator while you relax with a glass of wine and think about the sauce for your pasta, about 30 minutes.

I used this time to clean and salt a pound of fresh anchovies, as described in my favorite Zuni Cafe Cookbook (I should write about this book later, it's not just any cookbook that you get for pretty photographs. I not only enjoy reading it, but actually follow recommendations and even the recipes, and learn something fun and useful every time).

Actually, it's OK to refrigerate the dough for much longer, up to a couple of days (it's just eggs, right?), and it only gets better, if it is covered tightly with plastic and doesn't dry. So if you have anchovies to clean, you can still have a glass of wine afterwards.
OK, the wine is gone, the dough is ready to roll out. For this amount of the dough, do it in 3 or 4 portions. You flatten it first with your hand, then start running it through the machine at the widest setting ( 7 on mine), folding it after each time. This will knead your dough some more, and shape the sheet. When you are satisfied with the shape, you decrease the width setting (6, 5 4, 3, 2, I don't use 1, it's paper-thin and only used for filled pasta) and run the dough through the machine ones or twice on each setting, dusting with semolina if it gets sticky.

The sheet will become too long to handle at some point, cut it in half with scissors. It feels and handles more or less like fabric!

My machine has an attachment that cuts the pasta sheet into either fettuccine or spagetti. My favorite format, pappardelle, is cut by hand. And I don't cut off the rough edges, so that the pasta looks obviously homemade.

I cannot give any recommendations on how much pasta to make per person, it's very personal. Jamie Oliver's huge portions definetely don't work for me. I get time and a half as many servings from his recipes. So I just cook as much as I need, dust the rest with a lot of semolina, fold it carefully, and freeze it in plastic boxes for the future. Right now the future looks good - there are a few containers with different pasta shapes in the freezer.

And yes, the fresh pasta cookes in about 1 minute, frozen - in 2-3 minutes. So by the time you put it in the boiling water, the sauce must be ready, the plates warm, and the diners at table.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Celebrating the Season: Morels

The summer is oficially here, and this week's additions to the Farmers Market are nectarines, black cherries, anchovies, and - yes, yes, YES! - morels. Fresh and deliciously smelling. I honored this first handful with very simple preparation to preserve their forest appeal: washed them carefully (morels are pretty firm and don't absorb water as fast as other 'shrooms, and they really need to be soaked to remove all the sand, pine needles and small insects that they hide in their wrinkled cups and hollow stems), cut large ones in half, and fried in half olive oil/half butter, with salt, pepper, and a little minced shallot added towards the end of the cooking.

Served over fresh pappardelle pasta (on pasta making later).
Should be careful with this aged Parmigiano-Reggiano. It's taste was almost too strong for the 'shrooms.

Next time I may make a creamy sauce with goat cheese and herbs, or add other mushrooms, fresh or dried, and may be some wine and garlic. This first time it just had to be that simple.


Greek Marinated Octopus

One of the most beautiful and intelligent marine animals, marinated Greek-style.

In the Greek Ionian Islands I used to wake up to the loud sound of beating - the locals wake up at the sunrise, when one can catch a large octopus in the surf with one's bare hands, then they beat the catch on the concrete quay to make it release the ink.
The octopus is then boiled for two hours, with vinegar added halfway through cooking, cut up and marinated in olive oil, vinegar and Greek herbs - oregano, rosemary, thyme and parsley.

I never woke up early enough to catch my own octopus, but I had it already cooked in a seaside tavern and loved it. So now I am reproducing the recipe with frozen baby octopus that I catch in a Chinese grocery store.

The babies come already cleaned and free of the ink, as a block, with 10-20 little octopi frozen together. They take about 15 minutes in cold water to defrost and separate. Then I boil them - since they are small, the cooking time is reduced to 40 minutes, - add red vine vinegar for the last 10 minutes, cut the tentacles from the "head" and slice the "head" into rings, and marinate them with olive oil, red wine vinegar, salt, pepper, and chopped fresh herbs from the garden for at least an hour. They can keep in the refrigerator for at least a week.

Serve them cold, with country style bread and chilled Italian white wine.